
Kyoto Prefecture has long been home to a wide variety of traditional vegetables.
In winter, there is one item that is almost always on the shelves at pickle shops: "Senmaizuke." It is counted among the "Three Great Pickles of Kyoto," along with Shibazuke and Sugukizuke, and is a popular souvenir and everyday item on the dinner table.
This time, we will introduce you to Kyoto's "Senmaizuke," a famous product that has a deep meaning the more you learn about it.
Senmaizuke is made by thinly slicing and salting Shogoin turnip, a traditional vegetable of Kyoto. Shogoin turnip is said to be one of the largest turnips in Japan, and is characterized by its soft and elegant taste.
The larger turnips weigh around 2-5kg, and the turnips are thinly sliced and more than a thousand pieces are pickled in a wooden barrel, and the name comes from the fact that the turnip is sliced so thinly that it means a thousand pieces.
Senmaizuke, which is said to be a delicate pickle, is not intended to be stored for a long time and has a short shelf life of 4-5 to 10 days. It is made in November, when Shogoin turnips are in season, and can be eaten by March of the following year.
As winter approaches, many senmaizuke are prepared, and the process has become a seasonal feature of winter in Kyoto.
Senmaizuke is a dish created by Daikokuya Tozaburo, a chef at the Kyoto Imperial Palace during the Edo period. The dish, which uses seasonal Shogoin turnips and combines them with the Kyoto vegetable Mibuna (Japanese mustard spinach), is beautifully colored and delicately flavored, and was very popular with the people of the Imperial Court.
In 1865, the Imperial Palace also took the popular pickles and sold them in the town, where they were met with great acclaim and quickly became a popular item. Even today, you can purchase the carefully made Senmaizuke at the original store, so if you're interested, be sure to check it out.
Kyoto's Senmaizuke is made by slicing Shogoin turnips thinly with a large plane and then pickling them in a seasoning mixture of kelp, chili pepper, salt, vinegar, mirin, etc.
To ensure an even flavor, the cut turnips are neatly arranged in a circle and then first soaked in salt (pre-pickling), then soaked in a barrel with kelp and seasonings (hon-zuke). Pre-pickling has the role of drawing out the scum and water from the vegetables, and for hon-zuke, the turnips are arranged in layers so that the pre-pickled turnips, kelp, and seasonings can blend together.
Senmaizuke is carefully made by hand in this way, allowing you to enjoy both the turnip's natural sweetness and its aged umami.
Senmaizuke is generally cut into four or eight pieces before eating.
The kelp inside is delicious cut into thin strips and sprinkled with soy sauce or shichimi. If you want to enjoy it to the fullest, try folding the senmaizuke like a ginkgo leaf and taking a big bite from the pointed end.
It has a crisp texture and a smooth feel on the tongue, and the mellow flavor and refreshing aftertaste fills your mouth. The perfectly salted senmaizuke is truly delicious.
Another charm of senmaizuke is that its flavor changes depending on the time of year you eat it.
In November, the turnips in Senmaizuke are a little softer and have a fruity flavor. Towards the end of the year, the flavor of the turnip becomes even more pronounced, and it is delicious when eaten with Kyoto vegetables after a meal with a little soy sauce. In late January, the flavor becomes richer, and when eaten with smoked salmon, prosciutto, olive oil, black pepper, etc., it goes well with wine or sake.
Enjoy it in a variety of ways depending on the season.
From here, we will introduce some recommended sightseeing spots in Kyoto.
Kinkakuji is one of the most popular temples in Japan.
The golden temple, which was created to resemble the Pure Land, is so beautiful that it attracts many visitors from both Japan and abroad. The second and third floors are made of approximately 200,000 pieces of gold leaf, each 10.8cm square, and a golden phoenix shines on the roof.
In front of you is the "Kyoto Pond" which reflects the Kinkakuji Temple like a mirror, and is famous as an elegant spot that symbolizes Kitayama culture. Please be sure to visit.
Sagano, located in the western part of Kyoto City, is known for its beautiful bamboo forests, and the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest Path is particularly popular.
From Kyoto Station, take the train for about 17 minutes to JR Saga-Arashiyama Station, then walk west for about 10 minutes to arrive. The approximately 400-meter path that runs from Nonomiya Shrine, which is said to grant blessings such as matchmaking, to Okawachi Sanso Garden features beautiful, sinuous bamboo trees that seem to reach the sky, creating a stunning, lush green landscape. On sunny days, the sunlight filtering through the trees is pleasant, and the rustling sound of the leaves and the breeze blowing through the path are refreshing.
There is also a new spot nearby called the "Bamboo Forest Walking Trail," so be sure to stop by.
Higashiyama Jisho-ji Temple, commonly known as Ginkaku-ji Temple, is a temple built by Ashikaga Yoshimasa during the Muromachi period.
Within the temple are the national treasure "Togudo Hall," as well as the beautiful "Kougetsudai" and "Ginshadan" that are like works of art. Ginkakuji was originally built by Ashikaga Yoshimasa as a mountain villa, but it is a precious spot where you can feel the delicate beauty of its form, reflecting the "wabi-sabi" unique to Muromachi culture.
We recommend taking a bus from Kyoto Station.
The most convenient way to get to Kyoto is by plane or bullet train.
It takes about 2 hours and 10 minutes by Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Kyoto Station, and you can get there without having to transfer.
If you are coming from Sendai or Hokkaido, you can either fly to Itami Airport in Osaka or take the Shinkansen to Kyoto Station.
If you are coming from the Fukuoka area, we recommend taking the Shinkansen. It takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes from Hakata Station without any transfers.
Airplane fares can be cheaper if you book early, and the Shinkansen has the advantage of being easy to travel with. Please consider the best option for your trip.
Location of Kyoto Prefecture
This time we introduced you to Kyoto's local gourmet food, "Senmaizuke."
In Kyoto's pickle shops, "Senmaizuke" is made with great care by skilled craftsmen.
It is a seasonal product, and although it is lightly pickled, its mature flavor goes perfectly with rice and alcohol. Please enjoy the deliciousness of seasonal Kyoto pickles when you visit the area.
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